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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Re-coating Wheels
Thanks to everyone for the replies.
Funny, I thought the aluminum alloy wheels (that look like aluminum, not coloured) were just clear-coated and not powder coated. Thought powder-coating was an actual color.
And as I reside in the Pacific Southwest, of Canada, I am adjacent to the PNW, and although we do not, to my knowledge, have LesSchwab in Canada, for $35 each it might be worth a trip across the line. I will be looking into this.
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marpel
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10/29/23 04:45pm |
Tech Issues
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Re-coating Wheels
Trailer wheels (al alloy) are starting to look a little rough. It appears the clear coat is deteriorating. For my own curiosity, I did some quick online research on steel as opposed to aluminum replacements as well as re-coating the aluminum clear coat.
Obviously, the differences between replacing and re-coating are mainly cost and process/labour. Easier to just buy new rims (higher cost) but I am considering re-coating (less cost, don't like the idea of tossing a still-working product for the sake of a new prettier one, but more labour/technique). The marketers of a (re)coating product downplay the process involved and don't really address some of the issues.
So, my questions - Does anyone have any experience with re-coating al alloy rims (or any al products for that matter)? Does the process require doing the entire rim (ie can you just do the visible surfaces)? And how does the re-coated surface bear up compared to factory application? At the very least, it seems the process is rather labour intensive and it is recommended the old coating is sanded off, but is the final product worth it? And are there reasonably cheap commercial places that provide this service (although I suspect the total cost of that may be close to just buying 4 new wheels)?
As the trailer will not be used until next year, and I have the al wheels and good tires removed (sitting on a set of older tires and steel wheels for the winter), the al alloy rims are available for me to work on through the winter months.
Any input appreciated.
Marv
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marpel
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10/28/23 04:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Integrated rear view camera
Okay, I found the item, and was partially right and partially wrong.
This one is a wireless system, where the camera is placed at the rear of the trailer and the receiving unit is placed in the cab, and hooked up via a port under the dash to the OEM Infotainment centre. The wiring part is related to the two side cameras, which affix to the side mirrors and cables are run through the door and under/behind the dash. It was my intention to only use one of these two cameras and run it to the grill area for face in parking.
- Intellihaul 2.0 Trailering Camera Systems (from Echomaster) for 2020+ HDs Part #19421451.
- and Wireless Trailer Camera Part #19421453.
- and Front Camera Part #19421452.
Details and Part #s are a few months old, so may not be current.
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marpel
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10/12/23 04:39pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Integrated rear view camera
JDsdogs,
Shortly after I bought my '22 Sierra SLE 2500HD, I searched out a camera (system) for the rear of our trailer. I did locate one that I was going to purchase, but due to circumstance, did not. At the moment, I can't recall full details, but wrote down a bunch of stuff, so I will see if I can find the details. As I researched a lot of products at that time, I can't honestly recall if it is the OEM auxiliary camera or an aftermarket item.
Not sure of your trim level, but if you have at least the SLE, this item should work on your vehicle.
It does require, however, that you place the camera, run the cable (60 feet if I recall), to the cab, including prying up some trim and routing to an inlet just below the head unit (on my previous truck, I replaced the head unit with an aftermarket unit and had to route and pry trim and dash, so I am conversant in this - actually did it a couple times). The image plays on the OEM screen.
Marv
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marpel
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10/12/23 04:25pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Denver and surrounding areas
We have stayed at three locations over the years in the greater Denver area:
- Cherry Creek State Park, nice place, central location (way more central than the other two locations), is popular so can be booked up fairly quickly. Not sure if there is a time limit but suspect a couple weeks would be okay.
- Denver East/Strasburg KOA, located about 25 minutes east from greater Denver/Aurora on hwy 70, nice place but not real close to Denver related amenities/activities.
- Dakota Ridge RV Park, very nice place with resort-like facilities, west of Denver on hwy 70.
Have been to each place at least a few times and can recommend either but Dakota Ridge would be my top choice, although a bit more expensive than the others.
Because Denver has relatively few local, decent rv places, it would be a good idea to book well in advance. There are a couple others, but of less quality, in my opinion.
Marv
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marpel
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09/22/23 08:40pm |
RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
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RE: Air Conditioner
Thought I would post an update.
Decided to try the cheap, easy fix that I watched on a couple YT videos.
I built a diverter (upside down V) from some pieces of solid insulation, completely covered with silver foil tape. After sealing all possible air leaks in both bays (intake and cold air supply) with the same tape, I secured the diverter in the cold air bay. This effectively blocked the cold air straight dump, and diverted cold air to the two ceiling ducts. During measurements and design, I ensured optimum (from a layman's perspective) air flow to these ducts.
Once done, although we lost the straight dump, discovered the noise had dropped considerably and the cold air coming from the remote vents was noticeably greater. In fact, funny thing, by doing this I discovered we had a 4th a/c vent in the bathroom which, up until now, was so low/no volume, we had not even realized it was there. Go figure.
Total cost $10. Total time, less than a day.
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marpel
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08/30/23 08:24pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Air Conditioner
Thanks to everyone for the replies.
Interested in the Wackoproducts item so took a look at their site (thanks for the link).
Funny thing, they promise an 8-10 decibel reduction in noise (although initially, on the main page, they only promise a noise reduction, one has to hunt a bit for the 8-10), however, they also link an installation and review video in which the guy uses both a decibel meter and a db app on his cell phone. Both show a before/after comparison of about 2 decibel difference. 2 db is quite a bit different than 8-10.
As we have Dometic ducted a/c, will have to give this product further thought.
Marv
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marpel
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08/11/23 09:08pm |
Tech Issues
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Air Conditioner
Sitting in the trailer (smallish with single AC unit), after a long days drive, with ac on, as it is a gazillion degrees outside, and am wondering - why are the RV ACs so darn loud? I was up on the roof the other day, cleaning it and from what I can see, the only moving part(s) is the fan, so what makes the noise. It is like sitting next to a jet engine.
And do they not make them so they can be run with a little less output? Ours is either on full blast or not at all (we can close one or all of the three outlets but that does not reduce the output of the unit, itself).
I have been in houses where they have a, somewhat, whisper quiet built-in (the smallish kind that sit in an exterior wall,), and our fridge keeps things cool without the jet engine, so why can’t they do the same for a rooftop?
Marv
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marpel
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08/10/23 08:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Removing the cabinet above the bed in a cougar 5th
Don’t know what you mean by “replacing” and if that means full removal, but I had to remove the cabinets from the nose of our trailer (not 5th wheel) and it turned out to be a major operation. The cabinets were installed prior to the exterior skin, hence they were screwed in from the outside, and the screw heads were covered by the skin. It was not a simple matter of unscrewing from the inside of the trailer. Each screw had to be cut with a sawsall. Don’t know if yours is the same.
And I noticed your Shawnigan Lake signature. The wife’s uncle has had a place at the lake since about the 60s I think and a few years back bought the property next door as well. Nice area.
Marv
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marpel
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07/31/23 06:44pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Aftermarket parts
Thanks for the replies.
I understand the patent thing as well as some of the other points posted.
Having said that, I still don't understand why they all can't sit down in the same room and come to an agreement on things like the size of the opening and the number of and locations of the screw holes. Keep your specific design but at least make it so common products can easily be found and replaced.
Anyway, off in the morning for a 5000 km trip.
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marpel
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07/29/23 04:53pm |
Tech Issues
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Aftermarket parts
Have run into similar issue in the past with other parts,
End of last season, during a trip, the stove vent broke, again (cheap plastic item). Stopped at a Camping World and picked up a replacement.
Decided to tackle the job today.
Spent a couple hours removing the old and cleaning old sealant. The replacement is a cheaply made plastic item, but that was all they had available. After I took a closer look at it, not only did the screw holes not match the original, but it was just garbage so I decided not to use it. Drove about 60 miles to a dealer and found a much better quality one.
However, upon return home and a test fit, I found it too had different screw holes from the original, and from the cheap replacement. And the rectangular insert (which slides in the wall opening), is not even placed the same as the original (also different from the el cheapo), so I had to get out the saw and "modify" it to fit.
So, all three were different from each other, and I now have six spare holes in the side of the trailer (the original had eight screw holes, the replacement has ten and only two lined up...) and a cheap piece of plastic I will likely chuck in the garbage.
Is there a reason why the same basic item can't be made to the same specs so any replacement will match the original? Seriously. Rant over....
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marpel
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07/28/23 08:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Wheel Dust Caps
Thanks for your reply,
Are you talking silicone in a couple spots on the outside, spanning the joint between the cap and hub, or under the cap, between the two surfaces? And, will any silicone stand up to any heat generated by rotation/braking?
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marpel
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07/20/23 05:27pm |
Tech Issues
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Wheel Dust Caps
Upon return from the last trip or two, I have found a couple of the wheels have had the dust caps fall off (the cap, with the rubber nipple which covers the hub opening). Found them loose inside the hub cap (see next point).
And although recently replaced, one of the chrome hub caps (protrudes through aluminum wheel) has had its centre fall out somewhere along the trip. As I have now discovered, some of these hub caps have clip in centres (to access the dust caps??) while others, the whole cap is solid, so I just bought a full set of the solid ones....to replace four, almost new, caps.
So, my questions are:
- If the wheel has the solid hub caps, are the dust caps absolutely necessary? Regardless, I would still like to keep the dust caps, just wondering the downside when one or more fall off.
- The dust caps are held on by friction only, which apparently isn't effective enough. Any suggestions to ensure they stay in place? Each is tight enough to require a mallet to, gently, hammer them in, but they seem to work loose during travel.
I was contemplating either using a couple turns of electricians tape over the joint, but not sure if that would work, nor how it would react to the high heat in that area, or putting in some form of heat-proof packing material between the dust cap and the inside of the hub cap (there is a space between the two which allows the dust cap to work loose and fall) which would hold the dust cap in place.
Comments, suggestions are welcome.
Marv
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marpel
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07/20/23 03:02pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hot weather towing
Thanks all for the replies.
Yes, the truck is rated for 14500lbs, so am less worried about the weight of the trailer. Just wondering about the excessive heat and whether that changes anything, especially going up steep grades and hours of driving a day.
And I am a bit OCD when it comes to tires (vehicle and trailer), in fact am in the process of putting brand new ones on the trailer (Goodyear Endurance), so they can't be in any better shape than that. Good suggestion about regular inspection.
Marv
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marpel
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07/19/23 04:11pm |
General RVing Issues
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Hot weather towing
'22 GMC Sierra 2500HD, 6000lb trailer.
Will be heading to Denver Co from Vancouver BC in a week or so.
Have towed this route a number of times in the past, mostly in spring or fall, so the temperatures were less than current. Usually have done the Interstates through Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Utah, then either I80 or down to I70 from Salt Lake City, but have done I90 east then south down I25 as well. Regardless, mountain ascents are encountered (although I70 is significant).
Appears this heat is affecting every state in the south/southwest. Due to schedule, we will be travelling about 8-10 hours a day both ways, and only early morning/late night is not feasible.
For those pulling in this heat, any issues encountered or any suggested changes to routine?
Marv
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marpel
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07/19/23 08:41am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Window Repair
thought I would give a quick update, in the event someone else may be doing this same repair in the future.
Initially, as noted above, I visited an RV place and bought a set of window frames (apparently a standard size used by a lot of manufacturers) which had no accompanying sealant/gasket. And as further explained, things went a bit south and I wasted a roll of butyl tape. Also spread silicone on the inner track, which prevented me from returning the frames (see later).
Took a chance and visited a second RV parts place (farther distance from home). Funny enough, found the same set of frames WITH the sealant material (small bead of foam-like sticky stuff) already attached, exactly the same product which had been on the old set I removed. Unfortunately, because I laid a bead of silicone to the first set, I could not return them and purchase this set.
So, the moral of the story, there are window replacement frames available out there with sealant already affixed, which makes the whole job way easier.
Not sure why the first place did not have them, nor did they know about their existence. I even took the old frame in, with some of the old sealant still on, and showed the guy who "helped" me.
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marpel
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06/07/23 05:28pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Window Repair
So I went into an RV parts dept today and bought the two plastic window frames (found some cracking in the old ones) and was helped by a, seemingly, knowledgeable guy.
Asked him what is used for the seals and he directed me to butyl tape (for the outside of the frame(s) between the door and frames) and some silicone for the interior of the frames (to seal the actual glass). The tape was about 3/4 in wide, but he said to just apply and trim the excess.
Took the items home and spent the next couple hours cleaning the old stuff off the door, applying the tape (per the instruction sheet that accompanied the frames) and silicone. Then fiddled quite some time getting the frames in the door, without the frames or glass falling out (solo job, would have been much better with a second pair of hands).
And, found out it all would not fit because the butyl tape was too thick and left way too big a space between the interior frame and glass, and there was absolutely no way to compress it enough to get the frames to join to insert the screws.
By the time I pulled it all apart (everything was sticking together from trying to put it together), the silicone was a mess and the tape was now a big ball of sticky, so had to throw it out. So much for the employees advice.
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marpel
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06/05/23 09:25pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Window Repair
QCMan,
Thanks for the reply. I have no experience with butyl rubber tape, and do not understand your comment "Do not be overly generous....". I understand the concern about stripping the screw holes.
The stuff that I removed is like a two sided tape, about 1/4 wide but fairly thin (maybe a 1/16 of an inch thick, but hard to tell if that is the-now compressed thickness).
Do you mean do not apply multiple layers, or....? I presume this tape is available in different thicknesses?
Marv
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marpel
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06/04/23 07:30pm |
Tech Issues
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Window Repair
Due to a leak in the window of the entry door, I removed the window today (standard two part plastic frame, sandwiching a single pane piece of glass) to clean things out and replace the sealant/gasket.
The frames have two seals, one which seals between the frame and door panel, the other seals between the two frames where they butt up against each other.
The problem is identifying the seal material. They appear to be different material and due to age and deterioration, it is hard to tell exactly what they are. The outer seal (frame/door) seems to be an actual gasket of some sort (about 1/4 " wide and very sticky), while the inner (frame/frame) reminds me of plumbers putty.
Has anyone removed and repaired these parts and is able to offer comments on the sealant/gasket material used? And can they be purchased at a DIY store or are they particular to trailers?
Thanks,
Marv
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marpel
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06/04/23 04:25pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Goodyear Endurance is 5 years too old?
StirCrazy,
Not sure if it makes a difference, but my tires are 205/75/14.
Anyway, I have just finished getting quotes from 4 or 5 tire dealers here in the greater Vancouver area, and the most expensive was approximately $1200 (Fountain Tire), while the others were a couple bucks either side of $1000 (OkTire, KalTire etc), with the cheapest, I just ordered from, was a local small auto shop which I have been a customer of for the last ten or so years, at just over $900. All these prices include tax, all fees, and included installation.
Maybe the tire size is the difference, but I'm surprised they are that expensive up there.
Marv
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marpel
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05/19/23 05:19pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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